The Pirate Review - Ginger Tea Makes Friends

This little cookbook is an underground classic. Hie ye to an online book emporium and procure a copy forthwith.

Americans can be arrogant. (I know; I am one.) There is a tendency in the U.S. to ignore anything North of the Border unless it involves hockey, stand-up comedy or advancing cold fronts. If Americans believe there is such a thing as "Canadian cooking," they assume it is like American food, but with a funny accent and no spices.

Of course, most Americans don't have a cherished copy of Ginger Tea Makes Friends by James Barber.

If you want to be picky, Barber isn't a native-born Canadian—he was raised in England and emigrated to Canada as an adult—but it's clear his heart belongs to "the True North, strong and free." Before he settled down, though, he had plenty of time to wander—in Normandy, in New York City, in Eastern Europe, into the tiny galley kitchen of a boat, and a number of other unusual places. Slowly, he began to pick up handy skills and tips on how to cook all kinds of recipes, from the simple to the exotic.

In the late '60s and early '70s, Barber observed how many teens wanted to run away from home and have adventures—and how few actually did, mostly because they didn't know how to cook. He realized that a lot of cookbooks are terrifying to the beginner, with their specialized terminology and precise measurements... and as he stockpiled recipes, he began sketching out simple cartoon instructions on how to put them together. The cartoons, although rough, had charm and even a regular cast of characters—the grumpy, big-nosed cook; the cat; the minister; the Mountie. Right around this time he got a job writing a column for the Vancouver Province, who began publishing his recipes. Some thirty years later, Barber has a host of cookbooks and a TV show, The Urban Peasant, to his credit—but this, his first book, is great fun and a true time capsule of the early '70s.

As you read, you'll find yourself wondering—how should these be classified, exactly? Recipes? Cartoons? A little of both, actually, with the text on the left side and the full-page cartoon on the right, both explaining how to make the dish. The quality of the recipes varies from so-so to sensational—professional chefs might not be all that impressed with the book, but beginner cooks will love it. It's all very encouraging, hands-on and relaxed. Barber's explanation of measuring herbs is "A tight squeezed palm is a teaspoon, medium a dessertspoon, and a really open one a tablespoon." There are little nuggets of useful trivia scattered throughout: "Kids in the Middle East eat more tahini than North American kids eat peanut butter." "Retsina is just about the worst wine in the world." "Le Big Secret: [Crêpes are] just PANCAKES with STUFF on them."

And of course, there is Ginger Tea, which everyone should know how to make. Not only is it an excellent home remedy for the misery of colds and flu, it's just generally a happy-making experience. Here's all there is to it: for each person, a mug of water, an inch or so of coarse-grated fresh root ginger (or more), half a lemon (peel and all) and a couple heaped teaspoons brown sugar or honey. Put it all together into a medium-sized pot and let it boil, with a lid on, ten to fifteen minutes. Strain and drink. Trust me, this is the Brew that is True.

This version of the book was reprinted for its 30-year anniversary. Like most paperbacks, it doesn't lie flat, which makes for frustration in the kitchen. Also, unlike the red/green/sienna pages of the original book, the paperback is reprinted on monochrome yellow stock. The editors have taken occasion to fix a few minor mistakes in the original—"Avgolimono" is now spelled properly, and thanks to inflation "Go Greek for $5" has been changed to "Go Greek Cheap"—but for the most part this is the same quirky little cookbook Barber first printed in 1971. Original copies have gone for astronomical prices at auction, so do yourself a favor and pick up the reprint while it's still available (order online at Raincoast Books, Amazon.com or James Barber's own Web site). Heck, while you're at it, get one for a friend.

As James Barber would say, it gets you off, it makes them happy and it's legal.